Be a lot easier to wire them all up, just one long string of daisy chained parts.Įach one will need 20mA for Red or Green only, and up to 40mA for Blue+Green.įor an arduino library to control them.
Led cathode anode serial#
You send it 3 bytes of serial data, it takes care of turning on the appropriate color, 8 bit PWM per color. Say you used 40mA (the output is pulsed at 800 Hz), then a 6A supply.Īnother option would be WS2812B, which are RGB LEDs with a controller built in. MAX7219 turns on 8 LEDs at a time and needs 160mA or more at 20mA/LED (depending on brightness), Green+Blue = 16 * 160mA = ~3A power supply. You wouldn’t have to deal with multiplexing to make yellow, just turn on blue & green at the same time. Another way to tell which lead is the anode and which is the cathode is to look at the two plates at the end of the leads inside the body of the LED. The cathode is marked on the rim of the LED body with a flat area shown in the diagram. The positive pin is the ANODE (+) and the. Then we could work some math: say you were using MAX7219 to control the LEDs, which can control 64 LEDs each: 509/64 = 7.95, so 8 MAX7219s for each color. On the physical LED, the longer lead (or leg) of the LED is the anode. LEDs are diodes and diodes can only allow electrical current to flow in one direction, therefore LEDs are polarised. If you had RGBs that were 3 separate LEDs in a package, that would make life a lot simpler. The problem with RGB is the awkwardness of manipulating them. I count 506 LEDs there, so 1518 elements to control.
So you need to individually control all the RGB LEDs then.Ĥ00-600 = 1200-1800 control pins, unless you have some way to multiplex them.
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